What Makes a Good antique engagment ring

 

The Internet is a great place to research an antique engagment ring.

An antique engagement ring is like a fine wine or work of art; it speaks of the cultivation and refined taste of its owner. It is a showpiece of superb old-world craftsmanship, in contrast to the plain bands and prong settings of most modern rings. Because it is too costly to reproduce such intricate detail nowadays, antique rings will continue to appreciate in value over time.

THROUGH THE AGES
The most desirable estate engagement rings on the market today date from the late Victorian era (turn of the century) through the 1940s. Such rings reflect the popular tastes of their time; therefore, rings from different eras have very different characteristics.
Rings from the turn of the century through the 1920s were often made in white gold or platinum, with fine filigree (lace-like) detail on the mounting. Both yellow gold and white gold engagement rings were popular in the 1930s and 1940s, as were white and yellow gold combinations. A typical ring from this period may have smaller side diamonds, and/or intricate carving on the ring shank, such as flowers, leaves, hearts or geometric shapes. The center diamond is often set in a white gold square-shaped box, enhancing the color and size of the stone; therefore, a diamond in a 1940s mounting will always look much larger than one in a solitaire prong setting.



THE FOUR C's
So, what about THE FOUR C's, you might ask; how do carat weight, clarity, color and cut apply when buying an antique engagement ring? The short answer is, don't judge an antique ring by modern standards. Let's break it down into each "C."

The size, or CARAT weight, of the diamond is still the main determinant of price; the larger the stone, the more expensive the ring. However, especially during the 1930s and 1940s, diamonds were set in white gold square-shaped boxes, which were in turn often elaborately carved and beaded to give the diamond a larger appearance ("illusion" settings). Such rings give the modern-day budget-minded consumer the "look" of a larger diamond for the price of a smaller one.

The CLARITY of the diamond, determined by the number, character, and visibility of natural inclusions in the stone, also has a significant effect on price. Put simply, the clearer the stone, the more expensive. Some mid-century jewelry manufacturers, like Keepsake, built their reputations on using only high quality (VS) diamonds in their engagement rings. Most jewelers of yesteryear would not set a beautiful, intricately-detailed mounting with a poor quality stone.

The COLOR of the diamond is more a matter of taste than the previous two C's. Around the turn of the century, people wanted a diamond to reflect a rainbow of colors; accordingly, diamonds with soft pink, yellow or greenish tinges are seen often in rings from this era. Bright white diamonds are considered more valuable today because they are favored by modern tastes. Let your own preferences (rather than those of the masses) guide you when choosing an antique ring.

The CUT of an older diamond in particular should not be rated by modern standards. Both tastes and techniques have changed over the last century. Today's diamonds are mainly cut by laser, to the *exact* standards which have been developed over the years to produce maximum "fire" or light reflection. Older stones were cut by hand; consequently, there is more variation in the proportions of individual facets. Whereas modern diamonds show assembly-line precision, older stones preserve the hand of the artist, and are often said to have a much "softer," romantic look.


THE FIFTH "C"
Finally, I'd like to introduce a fifth "C" for evaluating antique engagement rings: CHARACTER. Consider the detail and workmanship of the ring. Imagine you wanted to have the same type of ring created for you today. Even if you could find someone skilled enough for the task, the cost of the labor would be outrageous! When you buy an antique ring, you essentially get the labor of the craftsman for free! This is best illustrated by determining how much you'd like to spend (say $500), and looking at both antique and modern rings to compare what your money will buy you.



In summary, let your tastes guide you when choosing an antique engagement ring. Keep the four C's in mind, but buy according to the fifth C, character: that's the one that captures all the charm and romance of the occasion for which it is meant!

 

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